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Have you ever noticed an unusual bump, spot, or scar on your skin and run it by a search engine, only to be met with a bunch of pictures that don't match your skin tone? Many Black and brown folks know this experience all too well. Often, the lack of representation of skin conditions on our complexions can leave us feeling even more confused as we try to figure out what's going on.

There's an array of conditions that affect every skin tone, but many of these look different on melanated skin than on white skin. A handful of these issues also affect Black and brown skin disproportionately. A 2025 medical article from the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology states that “conditions like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma are more prevalent and often more severe in individuals with skin of color.”

This is even more reason why darker skin in all its glory should receive the care and attention it deserves in dermatology. In 2004, Susan C. Taylor, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Philadelphia, established the Skin of Color Society, an organization committed to educating providers and the general public on dermatologic health related to skin of color. Dr. Taylor notes that as the nation's population becomes more ethnically diverse, the dermatological community will continue to see and treat skin conditions that occur more often, present differently, or are unique to Black people and other people of color.

"Since [establishing the Skin of Color Society], we have made terrific inroads in terms of understanding skin of color a little bit better and prioritizing skin of color," says Dr. Taylor, adding that the collective endeavor has led to lectures and conferences centered around melanated skin and more representation in mainstream dermatology textbooks.

To further increase awareness and resources around caring for skin of color, we've created a guide to the most common conditions for those with darker skin, breaking down exactly what you need to know to identify and treat them.

Find Your Skin Concern

Click to jump to a specific condition:

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• Melasma
• Keloids
• Dermatosis papulosa nigra
• Pseudofolliculitis barbae
• Traction alopecia
• Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia
• Seborrheic dermatitis
• Acanthosis nigricans
• Vitiligo
• Acral lentiginous melanoma

What is melanin and how does it affect skin health?

Before we talk about how to properly treat melanin-rich skin, it's important to know exactly what melanin is. Melanin is the pigment that causes your skin color. There are two types of melanin: eumelanin (brown pigment) and pheomelanin (yellow pigment).

A quick search of the hashtags #melanin and #melaninqueen on Instagram validates that the term "melanin-rich skin" has become mostly associated with darker skin tones. But Jenna Lester, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco, says most people have some sort of balance of the two types of melanin.

Depending on a person's skin color, they may have more of one type than the other. In general, eumelanin is more prevalent in people with darker skin. "So it's not that people with dark skin have more melanin; they just have more of a different type of melanin," says Dr. Lester.

Melanin is produced in cells called melanocytes, which are present in the lower layer of the skin, says Dr. Taylor. After making melanin, the melanocytes put it into packages called melanosomes, which are then transferred into the skin cells. In addition to providing pigmentation, melanin also serves as a protective agent. For example, eumelanin protects you to some extent from burning when exposed to the sun, says Dr. Taylor.

Why skin conditions can look different on dark skin

Since Black and brown skin has more eumelanin, certain skin conditions may present differently on darker skin tones than on lighter complexions. Take post-acne marks, for example. They might appear as post-inflammatory erythema [redness] on fairer skin, while they “look more brown [on dark skin] or even more purplish,” explains Esther Henebeng, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with U.S. Dermatology Partners Fairfax. “So if the photo that you're seeing online is a stock photo on white skin, but when you look in the mirror, and you see Black skin, you might not identify the issue.”

Common skin conditions on dark skin (at a glance)

Condition	How it appears on dark skin	When to see a dermatologist
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation	Dark spots of varying sizes and on different areas of the skin where injury has occurred.	If spots persist for months without progress or cause distress.
Melasma	Darker patches of skin, commonly seen on the upper lips and cheeks.	If patches worsen or cause distress.
Vitiligo	Patches of skin that are lighter than the pigment all over the body.	If patches spread or cause distress.
Keloids	A thick, dense, hard lump on the skin that can range in size.	When scars are painful, itchy, or increase in size.
Dermatosis papulosa nigra	Small, flat, brown to black lesions that slowly become larger in size with time.	If lesions change, bleed, become inflamed, or affect confidence.
Traction alopecia	Hair loss and thinning, accompanied by scalp tenderness, pain, and pimple-like bumps in the areas of highest tension—typically the hairline.	If you experience scalp sensitivity or see hair loss or thinning.
Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia, (CCCA)	Hair loss at the crown of the head that spreads outward.	At the first signs of hair loss, early diagnosis helps prevent further loss.
Pseudofolliculitis barbae	Small pimples that can also be paired with ingrown hairs. Depending on the severity, they can occur in rash-like clusters and can cause irritation and itching.	If bumps are recurrent, painful, or irritated.
Acral lentiginous melanoma	Dark brown or black spots or streaks on the palms, soles, or under the nail bed.	If the spots or streaks change in color or size, or if you notice a new or irregular mark.
Acanthosis nigricans	Dark, velvety, or thickened skin often on the neck, armpits, groin, or knuckles.	Immediately, to rule out underlying conditions like insulin resistance.
Seborrheic Dermatitis	Dark or hypo-pigmented patches with flaky scales, often on the scalp, eyebrows, nose, and ears.	If the condition is severe, persistent, itchy, or causes hair loss.

Pigmentation conditions

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

Courtesy of Dr. Rachel C. Falkner

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a result of injury to the skin, such as acne, burns, insect bites, or any other damage. Because skin of color has more brown pigment, there is more of a chance for PIH, says Michelle Henry, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.

“Those little melanosomes are full of pigments, and they’re so full that they’re almost bursting,” says Dr. Henry. “So that means anything can bump them and cause them to leak.” Leakage of that dark-colored pigment results in hyperpigmentation (which is, essentially, more color) in the affected area. Cue those dark marks or spots left behind after a pimple.

Signs and symptoms: On dark skin, PIH can range from small dark spots in concentrated areas of the skin to wider areas of discoloration. Dr. Henebeng says an easy way to distinguish PIH from other pigmentation conditions like melasma or vitiligo is to look at where the spots appear. “Wherever you get the pimple, [PIH] will usually be there, so you'll have that correlation that something happened to the skin in that spot or area,” says Dr. Henebeng, who adds that PIH does fade over time, whereas with melasma and vitiligo “regardless of what you do, it often does stick around."

How to treat it: When it comes to the treatment of hyperpigmentation, Uchenna Okereke, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Massachusetts, says studies have shown sunscreen use alone can help significantly reduce the appearance of dark marks on skin of color. “Consistent use of sunscreen is really the first step in treating hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Okereke. “Sunscreens with physical blockers like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide help block harmful UV rays from the sun, which will prevent worsening of dark marks.”

Several ingredients can help improve hyperpigmentation, including glycolic acid, cystamine, kojic acid, azelaic acid, and alpha-arbutin. Dr. Okereke advises seeing your board-certified dermatologist to help identify which are best for you.

Many times, there are over-the-counter options to help treat discoloration due to hyperpigmentation. We like the Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Gel, which is made with kojic acid and licorice root, as well as the Allure Best of Beauty Award-winning CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum, formulated with niacinamide and retinol.

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Melasma

“Melasma is a pigmentary disorder that appears as lacy, [meshed] patches,” Corey L. Hartman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, previously told Allure. In the case of someone diagnosed with melasma, "those pigment-producing cells are stimulated to create more pigment, resulting in darker discoloration, says Dr. Lester.

Melasma is also referred to as “the mask of pregnancy.” That's because it's sometimes linked to hormones that surge or plummet during periods like pregnancy, says Dr. Henry. “We see it with pregnancy; we see it post-menopause; any of these hormonal changes can cause it [melasma],” she says.

But melasma isn't isolated to periods of hormonal shift, Dr. Henry notes. She's seen people with the skin condition at all stages of life. Dr. Henebeng points to genetics as another possible cause of melasma. “So if Mom had it, you might have it,” says Dr. Henebeng.

Signs and symptoms: Melasma presents as darkened patches on the skin, typically on the forehead, cheeks, and upper lip. Dr. Henebeng says these locations on the face are one way you can distinguish melasma from other pigmentation conditions, though it's always best to see a dermatologist to confirm your condition.

How to treat it: Dr. Henry says that the patches and blotches sometimes go away on their own, or they can stick around longer. If your melasma doesn't resolve itself, there are a few treatment options.

Sunscreen is foundational to the treatment of melasma, says Dr. Taylor. “People with melasma want to block out [UVA and UVB light] and visible light,” she explains. “Those three wavelengths of light can worsen melasma, make it darker, and prevent medications from being as effective as they can be.”

She notes that in addition to sun protection, lightening products may also be used. A prescription topical medication Dr. Taylor recommends is Tri-Luma, which contains hydroquinone (4%), tretinoin (.05%), and the corticosteroid fluocinolone acetonide (.01%). "Those three ingredients together have been demonstrated to be superior in lightening melasma as compared to a combination of any two of those ingredients paired together," she notes.

Some dermatologists also recommend SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum, which is formulated with kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and niacinamide. We also like the niacinamide- and pro-retinol-laced Melé Even Dark Spot Control Serum as an under-$25 option. Chemical peels can also be integrated into treatment to lighten the pigmentation of melasma, Dr. Taylor says.

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Vitiligo

Courtesy of Dr. John A. Thompson Jr.

Vitiligo is a condition that causes the skin to lose its natural pigment. It's an autoimmune condition, which means your body is producing inflammatory T-cells that attack the melanocytes (the cells that produce pigment), explains Yolanda Lenzy, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Chicopee, Massachusetts.

It's unclear exactly what causes vitiligo, but doctors believe there is a genetic susceptibility combined with an autoimmune condition, like lupus or thyroid disease, that mistakenly attacks the melanocytes, says Hope Mitchell, a board-certified dermatologist in Ohio. It can occur in people of any race, age, ethnicity, or gender, and it is neither contagious nor life-threatening.

On white skin, the lighter patches may blend in with the person's complexion, but the loss in pigmentation is very noticeable in people with darker skin. “Because vitiligo affects a person's physical appearance, the psychosocial burden may be significant,” Dr. Mitchell explains, adding that varying levels of emotional distress and stigmatization may occur.

Signs and symptoms: With vitiligo, you'll notice white (or lighter pigment) patches of skin on different parts of the face and body. “It can pretty much happen anywhere on the body,” says Dr. Lenzy, and these patches don't resolve on their own.

Courtesy of University of New Mexico Dermatology

How to treat it: Treatment begins with correcting any underlying autoimmune conditions, says Dr. Mitchell. Options to promote re-pigmentation are available and have proven to be effective, says Dr. Lenzy, who has found success using tacrolimus ointment, a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agent. Opzelura (ruxolitinib 1.5%), a steroid-free JAK inhibitor cream, is another topical prescription that Dr. Henebeng recommends to her patients.

Sun protection is essential for people who have vitiligo because the loss of melanin will cause them to burn more easily. Dr. Mitchell also recommends that patients try to avoid and limit stress, as both can “start a cascade of inflammation that can attack the melanocytes, causing pigment loss.”

Phototherapy, where exposure to light sources is used to treat certain medical conditions, is also a treatment option for vitiligo, says Dr. Mitchell. Also known as light therapy, the treatment is done at your doctor's office on a set schedule over a period of months to see improvement.

Scarring and growth conditions

Keloids

Courtesy of University of New Mexico Dermatology

Keloids are an overgrowth of scar tissue. They present as a thick, dense, hard lump on the skin that can range in size. Clinically, Dr. Lester has seen patients develop a keloidal scar after having their ears pierced, as a result of a surgical incision or an acne lesion, or after another injury to the skin.

“Keloids are most common in our patients with skin of color,” says Elizabeth Kiracofe, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago. “And those of African descent are at the highest risk for the development of keloids,” says Dr. Kiracofe. Reports of familial cases suggest a genetic contribution to the development of keloidal scars. “When it does occur in families, it does so in an autosomal-dominant fashion, meaning that half of the family is at risk,” she adds.

Signs and symptoms: The growth of a keloid scar usually originates with an injury to the skin, like a C-section scar. It can sometimes be marked with itching or pain, or both. And, depending on the size and location of the scar, it can carry aesthetic concerns or discomfort with movement.

Courtesy of TBerger MD; WFaugas JD MD-(c)

How to treat it: While no one treatment is 100% effective at preventing the recurrence of keloids, Dr. Kiracofe stresses that keloids are treatable. Treatment options include steroid injections into the keloid, surgical removal, and laser therapy, among others. Dr. Henebeng adds that cryotherapy (using a cold spray to freeze the keloid) can also work. “We use a very, very cold spray on the lesion,” says Dr. Henebeng. “What ends up happening is that it's so cold that it burns a little bit. The whole area turns white, and they might do that for a few passes. Over time, you'll see it shrink.”

Depending upon the case, your dermatologist may recommend more than one treatment at a time. Dr. Henebeng explains that steroid injections or creams are typically used after surgical removal.

Dermatosis papulosa nigra

Dermatosis papulosa nigra (DPN) is a condition where benign growths resembling moles or freckles grow on the cheeks and around the eyes. They are known colloquially as “Morgan Freeman spots,” as the raised growths on the actor's face have become more prominent during his decades-long career.

Signs and symptoms: DPN may sound similar to skin tags, but Dr. Henry points out that they differ in morphology and location. “DPN lesions are flat-topped or minimally elevated, darkly pigmented, and clustered symmetrically on the face,” she says. “Skin tags are soft, flesh colored, and hang from a visible stalk.  They tend to occur in skin folds and friction areas rather than the face”

Many patients report a family history of DPN. This may suggest that there is a genetic predisposition to developing the papules. DPN is not dangerous and doesn't require treatment, though some people opt to have the growths removed for cosmetic reasons.

How to treat it: The removal procedure is called electrodesiccation. DiAnne Davis, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Dallas, explains that topical lidocaine is used to numb the skin before the procedure. Next, a needle-shaped electrode is used at a very low setting to “dry up the tissue” using a high-frequency electric current.

“After the procedure, the lesions will turn darker for a couple of days and slowly fall off,” says Dr. Davis. Removal is permanent, she adds, but patients can develop new growths in other places, like the neck and chest.

Hair and scalp conditions

Pseudofolliculitis barbae

Courtesy of Jules Lipoff, MD, FAAD

Pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB), also known as razor bumps, is an inflammatory condition of the skin caused by a hair-removal process, like shaving.

PFB is seen more frequently in skin of color as a consequence of the shape of the hair follicle, says Dr. Henry. For Black people, the follicles tend to be curved instead of straight, and that encourages the hair to curl back toward the skin. “Black, curly hair may start to curl while it's growing, even before it exits the follicle, or it may curl right after exiting the follicle,” Dr. Henry explains. “And so now you've cut the hair, and it's growing out, and it's going to pierce the skin, come back in, and create an ingrown hair.”

Barbae is Latin for beards, so people tend to associate PFB with Black men because of their facial hair, says Dr. Lester. But she also sees PFB in women of color who have hair growth on the face, in the groin, or in the bikini area.

Signs and symptoms: PFB is fairly easy to identify since it shows up on areas of the skin where you shave or wax. On dark skin, razor bumps look like small pimples and can also be paired with ingrown hairs. Depending on the severity, they can occur in rash-like clusters and can cause irritation and itching.

How to treat it: For a more delicate zone like the bikini area, Dr. Lester recommends shaving in the direction of the hair growth instead of against it and using a sharp, multi-blade razor. She also recommends depilatory hair removal creams, like Nair or similar products, but warns that you need to be vigilant to ensure it doesn't get into any sensitive areas down below.

Serums that contain chemical exfoliators like glycolic or salicylic acid may also help with the appearance of razor bumps, especially when they're accompanied by ingrown hairs. “These exfoliators dissolve connections between cells on the surface of the skin to prevent hairs from becoming trapped,” Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, previously told Allure.

Geeta Yadav, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Facet Dermatology in Toronto, recommends Kiehl’s Ingrown Hair & Tone-Correcting Intimate Drops. “This formula contains a blend of three alpha-hydroxy acids (lactic, glycolic, and mandelic) as well as salicylic acid, which help address ingrown hairs by exfoliating skin at the surface and within the follicle,” Dr. Yadav previously told Allure. We love the Fur Ingrown Eliminator Serum, which has salicylic acid as well as aloe to soothe any irritation caused by the bumps.

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Traction alopecia

Courtesy of Lauren Chen

Constant pulling on the hair in styles like braids, weaves, cornrows, and tight ponytails can lead to long-standing trauma and then hair loss, known as traction alopecia, explains Dr. Henry. It's important to note that high-tension hairstyles cause hair loss in both natural and chemically relaxed hair, she adds.

Signs and symptoms: In addition to hair loss and thinning, traction alopecia symptoms include scalp tenderness and pain, and pimple-like bumps in the areas of highest tension. You'll know that you're dealing with traction alopecia versus another condition like centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) based on where you're noticing the symptoms, says Dr. Henebeng. Traction alopecia typically starts at the hairline (as this is where the most tension from protective styles occurs), but in certain cases it can begin on other parts of the head where the most tension is applied.

How to treat it: In cases of traction alopecia, because the hair loss follows where there's tension on the scalp, stopping whatever process is causing that stress is key, says Dr. Lenzy. “I recommend that patients rotate their hairstyles,” she explains. “So if you had braids in for four to six weeks, you need to wear your hair out for at least that [same] length of time to give it a break from the tension and the weight.”

Courtesy of Trayam Dermatology

The second step in treatment for traction alopecia is to target the inflammation, says Dr. Lenzy. With a hand-held dermatoscope (a tool that helps magnify the area it hovers over), she is able to look at her patients' hair follicles to see indicators of the condition. “I can see redness and small bumps called pustules, like little pus-filled bumps, around the follicles,” she says. “And that's a sign that those follicles are under a lot of stress.”

To decrease inflammation, you might receive topical anti-inflammatories, like cortisones. Dr. Henry says intralesional steroid injections can also help. “They can provide deeper anti-inflammatory penetration and are a standard treatment for active traction alopecia.”

Both doctors suggest a low dose of minoxidil, depending on the severity of the case. Minoxidil "helps those residual hairs to thicken,” Dr. Lenzy says. “Because a lot of times, the hairs that are left are very, very thin and fragile.” Dr. Henry adds that this is an option for someone who might have difficulty keeping up with topical formulations.

Dr. Henry also offers platelet-rich plasma (PRP). “While evidence is limited to case reports and small series for scarring/traction alopecias, PRP has shown promise in slowing disease progression and reducing inflammation,” she says.

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia

Hair loss at the crown of the head that spreads outward is known as central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia, or CCCA. The exact cause of CCCA is unknown. While certain hair-care practices and hairstyles (like high puffs and tight ponytails) have been said to trigger scarring in the crown area that leads to hair loss, there seems to be more to the cause of the condition than just how to style your hair.

A lot more research is being conducted to try and pinpoint why CCCA happens, says Dr. Lester. “There are people who've always used low-tension hairstyles and have never used chemicals or anything like that who also get it,” she says. “So it's not just about hairstyling.”

Cicatricial comes from the Latin word for scar, and CCCA is the most common form of scarring hair loss in Black women, as noted by multiple dermatologists on our expert panel. Inflammatory cells, such as lymphocytes, lead to the destruction of the hair follicle, explains Dr. Lenzy.

How to treat it: Proper diagnosis precedes treatment. In her practice, Dr. Lenzy performs a biopsy to properly diagnose the condition, which can often be mistaken for other forms of alopecia. Using a microscope, a pathologist can see the inflammatory cells. In a case of CCCA, “the hair follicle becomes replaced with scar tissue,” she says. “So if we look at it under the [dermatoscope] we no longer see the hair follicles. We see scar tissue.”

Areas that are scarred in this way generally do not grow back, Dr. Lenzy adds. Some people, however, will have hairs that have “stunted growth,” she notes, which dermatologists can encourage to grow back by controlling the inflammation and adding in other treatment options.

This is why the early and accurate diagnosis of CCCA is so important, says Dr. Lenzy, adding that she also tends to treat CCCA more aggressively than other forms of hair loss. “I have found that when it's not treated aggressively enough, it tends to progress faster,” she says. "So I use things like oral antibiotics, not because it's an infection, but because the antibiotics are anti-inflammatory."

Dr. Lenzy also uses some of the same treatments for traction alopecia to treat CCCA, like topical corticosteroids compounded with minoxidil. And she sometimes opts for steroid injections for deeper penetration into the scalp and nutraceuticals to help with the growth and thickness of the residual hairs.

Dr. Henry's other options include low-dose oral or topical metformin. “This is arguably the most significant emerging therapy,” she says. “A 2024 case series in JAMA Dermatology found [positive results] among 12 patients with treatment-refractory CCCA treated with metformin 500 mg daily.” And for more severe cases, oral tofacitinib and adalimumab (targeted therapies for autoimmune and inflammatory conditions) can be prescribed.

Treatment for CCCA is often a months-long, complex process, Dr. Lenzy says. She recommends that patients seek out a board-certified dermatologist, preferably one who specializes in hair loss.

Seborrheic dermatitis

Seborrheic dermatitis is the inflammation of skin caused by an overgrowth of Malassezia, a yeast naturally present on the skin, explains Nina Desai, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Manhattan Beach, California.

Dr. Henebeng says she sees seborrheic dermatitis very commonly in Black women. “Some of my Black female patients don't wash their hair as frequently when they wear braids and such, so it causes an overgrowth of yeast,” she says.

Other factors like stress, high temperatures, and harsh detergents and soaps can also cause seborrheic dermatitis.

Signs and symptoms: It can appear as dandruff for many. “Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis exist on the same disease spectrum,” says Dr. Henry. “Dandruff is characterized by mild scaling of the scalp without visible inflammation. Seborrheic dermatitis presents as red patches with greasy scales affecting sebaceous-rich (oily) areas.”

She adds that seborrheic dermatitis doesn't just appear on the scalp. It can also manifest on the face (nasolabial folds, eyebrows), upper chest, and back. It can also be accompanied by scaliness, redness, or greasy patches on your skin.

How to treat it: For seborrheic dermatitis on the scalp, derms point to anti-yeast or antifungal medications like ciclopirox or ketoconazole shampoo as the first step in treatment. Your dermatologist can prescribe one at your appointment, or you can purchase one over the counter (though dermatologists warn against using an OTC and a prescription shampoo at the same time, as this can dry out your scalp). “I usually tell my patients to wash their scalp with the prescription shampoo two to three times a week, leave the shampoo in for 5 to 10 minutes, and then follow it with their regular shampoo and conditioner,” Dina Elrashidy, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago, previously told Allure.

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When shopping for over-the-counter shampoos, look for antifungal ingredients like zinc pyrithione and selenium sulfide to combat yeast overgrowth. Dr. Elrashidy recommends DermaZinc Shampoo, which contains zinc pyrithione. Exfoliating ingredients like salicylic acid can also help remove scales, as a secondary treatment, says Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, who recommends Neutrogena T/Sal Scalp Build-Up Control Therapeutic Shampoo that contains 3% salicylic acid and relieves flaking without irritation.

Conditions that may signal underlying health concerns

Acanthosis nigricans

Courtesy of University of New Mexico Dermatology

Acanthosis nigricans (AN) is a skin condition characterized by “velvety,” darker, and thicker patches, says Dr. Mitchell. It is most commonly found in the armpit, groin, or neck folds and creases, where skin lines become deeper and more noticeable.

AN is much more common in people with darker skin pigmentation, Dr. Mitchell says, though research hasn't pinpointed why exactly that is. She has found the discoloration and change in skin texture due to AN to be quite distressing for her patients of color. “Some people believe the skin is dirty or tainted with a product that has discolored the skin,” she says. “During an evaluation [for AN], people may report scrubbing the skin because, for example, they believe they have a dirty neck.”

The presence of acanthosis nigricans may represent an underlying health condition and has been associated with obesity, insulin resistance, pre-diabetes, diabetes, thyroid disease, or polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), notes Dr. Mitchell. If this is the case, your doctor may address those underlying health concerns first, which may help improve the skin discoloration.

Signs and symptoms: In addition to the textured, dark patches, acanthosis nigricans may include itching and odor and can also be accompanied by skin tags.

Courtesy of University of New Mexico Dermatology

How to treat it: The treatment of AN is multifaceted, “partly because there can be more than one cause of the condition,” says Dr. Mitchell. One way she treats the condition is with clindamycin (a prescription antibiotic) and antibacterial cleansers applied directly to the area to decrease any odor from secondary infection in the folds. Topical or oral retinoids may also aid in thinning the areas that are thicker than the surrounding skin, she says. And creams with exfoliating and lightening properties may work as well. Some of Dr. Mitchell's favorite ingredients to treat AN include salicylic acid, retinoids, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and hydroquinone.

We recommend Drunk Elephant T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Night Serum, a glycolic and lactic acid-based treatment, and La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 10% Pure Glycolic Acid Serum, a drugstore serum that has glycolic acid as well as tranexamic acid.

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Skin cancer

Acral lentiginous melanoma

People with darker skin are more likely to get skin cancer in areas that are typically protected from the sun, such as the palms, soles of the feet, or under the nails, says Dr. Lester. This is called acral lentiginous melanoma,

Signs and symptoms: This form of skin cancer can begin as a patch of discolored skin or a dark streak on the nails. Despite it occurring less commonly, Black people diagnosed with melanoma have poorer survival rates than white people, according to a 2019 study by researchers at the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) and the American Cancer Society. That's why it's important for people of color to keep an eye on those areas. And if they see a new dark spot or streak appear or a dark spot growing in size, Dr. Lester encourages them to go to their dermatologist to determine if there's cause for concern.

How to treat it: The treatments for acral lentiginous melanoma can vary depending on the severity of the cancer, but one early treatment method is surgical removal of the mole, though further monitoring is always required to ensure that the cancer has not spread or doesn't return. Radiation and immunotherapy are other treatments.

FAQs About Skin Conditions on Black and brown Skin

AccordionItemContainerButtonLargeChevronWhat skin conditions are most common on dark skin?

A 2025 study showed that “disorders of pigmentation are among the leading dermatologic concerns in populations with darker skin tones.” This includes melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and vitiligo.

How to find a dermatologist specializing in skin color?

While you may be tempted to look for a dermatologist who shares your skin color (which is totally understandable), it's more important to seek out a doctor who specializes in the condition you may be dealing with. Sites like ZocDoc allow you to filter by condition.

Asking friends and family who have or have had the condition you're dealing with for dermatologist recommendations is also a good place to start. If you're very keen on seeing a Black dermatologist, there are several directories online, including Allure's Black dermatologist directory and Black Derm Directory on Instagram.

Are laser treatments safe on dark skin?

Laser treatments are one way to address certain skin conditions like hyperpigmentation and keloids, but lasers haven’t been as safe for people with darker skin tones since they typically work by targeting melanin in the skin. “[Lasers work] through a process called selective photothermolysis,” Naana Boakye, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Hackensack, New Jersey, previously told Allure. Photothermolysis is a scientific term for how energy from lasers selects, heats, and destroys a target, in this case, melanin.

Some lasers that treat conditions such as hyperpigmentation and keloids and are safe for dark skin tones include Aerolase Neo Elite and Lumenis' Splendor X. Both treatments use a specific type of 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser, says Sarah Yagerman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. This technology delivers pulses of heat beneath the epidermis without disrupting the skin's top layer, making it safer for darker skin tones because it doesn’t target or damage melanin. It also doesn’t injure the epidermis, which can result in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scarring in Black and brown skin.

A collage of images of Anne Hathaway as Penelope, Robert Pattinson, Matt Damon as Odysseus, Zendaya as Athena, and Tom Holland in Christopher Nolan's “The Odyssey” film.Photos: Universal PicturesSave StorySave this storySave StorySave this story

“It is a time of apparent magic….” This is how Christopher Nolan’s The Odyssey begins. A single line of text against a black screen, reminding viewers of (or introducing them to) Homer’s mythological tale of gods and goddesses, spells and potions, monsters and mystical disguises. Nolan’s film has all of that: the giant Cyclops and the six-headed dog; lotus flowers that, when eaten, erase your memory; Circe, the sorceress, who transforms Odysseus’s men into pigs with her bare hands, in one of the most gut-wrenching scenes in the film (literally and figuratively). The director famously prefers in-camera effects versus CGI, so an integral part of creating this “apparent magic” onscreen was through hair and makeup in the film.

Greek mythology is full of colorful, physical descriptions, often repeated over and over again. Depending on the translation, Athena is the goddess “of the bright owl-eyes.” Calypso is “the nymph with the lovely braids.” When Athena de-ages Odysseus at the climax of the poem, she makes his “hair grow thick on top of his head and flow down in curls like hyacinth blooms.” Hair department lead, Gloria Pasqua Casny, and makeup department head, Luisa Abel, had these references in their heads when designing the beauty looks for the film, but they also had direction from Nolan to keep everything more grounded.

The director wanted “an earthy narrative,” and despite the scale of the film—including the 65 mm film it was shot on, the larger-than-life creatures, and the many complicated battle and boat scenes—in Nolan’s hands, the 3,000-year-old epic poem takes on an intimate, human quality. The way Casny and Abel designed the characters’ hair and makeup has much to do with evoking that feeling.

Below, we break down the the ways Casny and Abel helped bring Homer's tale to life, speaking to them not only about their research and processes, but also how they added that little bit of magic that—based on the response to the film—is making society fall in love with the classic tale once again.

Styling the hair, the Ancient Greek way

Both Casny and Abel looked to ancient Greek art and artifacts in their research for the film. Casny spent time in museums, and Abel examined “pottery, murals, and paintings that showed what facial hair and people’s faces look[ed like] at the time.” Abel also looked into the type of cosmetics people would have had access to in ancient Greece, and “was able to test modern products that simulated the right colors but gave us a lightweight, flawless look that we wanted for IMAX.”

While researching ancient Greek hair practices, Casny came across a few surprises. After a trip to the Brooklyn Museum, she “found that 3,000 years ago, there were curling irons,” and the “ancient Greeks also had barbershops.” Both discoveries informed her choices for many of the principal cast and background actors.

In Greek mythology, curly hair is talked about a lot. It was a sign of vitality and beauty, heroism and divinity. In the book, Odysseus’s hair texture is described as “curling hair like hyacinth petals,” and while Matt Damon kept his natural texture for his turn as the wily warrior, many characters embraced and enhanced their natural curls.

Casny was particularly happy when Tom Holland, who plays Odysseus’s son Telemachus, showed up with his natural bouncy texture. “Tom has great curly hair, and when he came in [for tests], I just shook his hair up and was like, ‘You are not cutting it or wearing it straight,’” she recalls. She used a bit of mousse (often R&Co) and argan oil for some extra zhuzhing on set.

Tom Holland’s curls were enhanced with mousse for his role as Telemachus.

Universal Pictures

Many of the bronze and gold hair accessories throughout the film are also inspired by Bronze Age artifacts. For Odysseus’s long-patient wife Persephone (Anne Hathaway), Casny found Bronze Age hairpins with little birds on the ends that the props team duplicated for her to use in the film. A jewelry maker in Morocco, where much of the movie was filmed, recreated gilded flowers that Casny had also come across.

For Lupita Nyong’o, who plays both Helen of Troy and Clytemnestra (who are twins in Nolan's adaptation), Casny decorated the hair of both characters with gold thread from the costume department, and beads and gold strips she found on Etsy. For Clytemnestra, specifically, Casny had a hairpiece designed for her featuring an image of a bird she found in her research. Casny wanted an accessory that reflected the spinal shape of the helmet of Agamemnon, Clytemnestra’s husband, but also symbolized her desire to be free of the husband that forced her to sacrifice their daughter. “We were saying that this is her symbol of freedom, of which he had no idea," says Casny, "her own secret little pin.”

Bringing the gods down to earth

In this version of The Odyssey, we rarely see the gods. (Zeus and Poseidon are alluded to only through thunder and stormy seas.) The deities you do see aren’t bathed in gold light or dripping in jewels; their looks are pared down, rugged, and very human—and that was the point. For Nolan, the “whole thing was him having it grounded,” explains Casny.

Calypso (Charlize Theron), for instance, is a recluse living on a remote island, catching her own fish —almost like Survivor vibes, says Casny. The filming location’s 30-50 mph winds helped achieve the effect of Calypso's aesthetic, as did mousse scrunched in her hair “for a gritty look,” and leave-in conditioner and serum from Virtue Labs to help it stay looking wet (Theron’s personal hairstylist, Adir Abergel, is creative director of the brand). To tie up her hair, Casny used some gauze from Theron’s costume, creating shapes that “looked like she would do it herself.” Abel kept her makeup “tanned and broken down, with a more outdoor feel,” signaling the “warrior, self-sufficient aspect of her character.”

Matt Damon as Odysseus, aged with gray hair pieces and makeup, and Zendaya as Athena.

Universal Pictures

In Casny’s mind, Circe (Samantha Morton) was in a disheveled disguise in order to lure in Odysseus’s men, gain their trust, and take advantage of them. And when it came to Athena (Zendaya), “I think the whole thing with Athena [in this film] is that she is the image of the young village girl killed [during the Battle of Troy], and that's what stayed in Odysseus’s mind—that’s the form she took in his imagination—and it helped a lot with how her look ended up,” explains Casny.

Zendaya’s bob was middle parted, woven into two little braids that were tucked back, and covered with a headscarf. For her makeup, her look is a very pared-back version of the flushed cheeks and bare lashes she wore to the New York premiere of the film—blush and all. Abel “wanted her character to be flawless while maintaining a grounded quality,” she explains. “She has a very youthful, translucent look that we achieved with sheer makeup, such as Merit blush.”

Battling the elements… and recreating them

The hair and makeup teams experienced their own epic-sized journey in dealing with the weather on set, including humidity and 50 mph winds in Morocco, sideways rain in Iceland, and freezing temperatures and rocky waters during the film’s many boat scenes. “I was so thankful Christopher didn’t want wigs," Casny says with a laugh. "I’m not sure how we would have managed.”

When Odysseus and his men were sailing, they often didn't need help staying absolutely soaked to the bone, but here’s the thing about getting your hair wet: It does dry eventually…and frizz and poof in random directions when not styled. In most scenes, Casny needed a way to keep the men looking wet and sweaty, and she did that with lots and lots of hair wax, which is great for recreating the effect of sweat sticking to your skin; for Damon, she “went through every hair and smashed it in—coats and coats of it so it didn’t move.”

Filming in sideways rain in Iceland.

Universal Pictures

The real secret weapon of the film—when it came to beauty, that is—was natural argan oil. Vats of it. “One of our hairstylists [on set] has a farm that grinds the argan nuts," Casny explains, "and so we had this gallon of brilliant virgin argan oil that we put in little containers.” The argan oil was used on Odysseus and his men, on Telemachus, and on the 1,300 background actors that Casny and Abel’s teams were responsible for. Adds Casny, “It keeps the hair wet looking; you can spray water on it all day and it doesn’t dry out.”

There was also a lot of dirt on set. “There wasn’t a single scene in the film in which the characters didn’t have varying levels of ingrained dirt,” says Abel, who had the products custom-made, ensuring they had a “sheer, natural quality,” plus being “waterproof.” “Every sequence and place has different colors and textures of dirt, too,” she adds. “This was all researched in detail and products were custom-made to match the red and pale sands of Troy, the black and gray tones in Hades, the green and brown tones with the Laestrygonians, and the white pale sands of Calypso.”

Casny and her team matched the makeup department’s dirt, and for one of the film’s most visually striking scenes—when Odysseus and his men land on the shores of Hades (actually a black-sand beach in Iceland)—that meant getting dirty themselves. In addition to mixing black pigment into inexpensive hair gel, the team also sifted the black sand into finer and coarser granules. “We mixed the fine sand into the hair gel as well," Casny explains, "and then I would put the coarser pieces on my hand and stick them on the surface of the hair to get that crusty effect of Icelandic sand.”

Universal PicturesDepicting the passage of time

Both Homer, in the epic poem, and Nolan, for the film, play around with time, telling the story of Odysseus’s 20-year journey home in a nonlinear fashion. On camera, hair and makeup was integral to making this clear to the audience. For Penelope, Abel “needed to…create a beauty look that was youthful and vibrant, as well as a beauty look that was over-aging makeup,” she says, calling out the Typology Glow Drops as a key product for young Penelope. “Illumination, specific cheek placement, and the use of age spots helped tell the story of Penelope’s journey.”

For Odysseus, Casny painted Damon’s hair brown for his scenes during the Battle of Troy, and then glued loose gray pieces into his natural hair for the scenes when his character is meant to be 20 years older.

John Leguizamo’s hair was dyed white for the film, a process that took multiple sessions.

Universal Pictures

John Leguizamo’s character, Eumaeus, who is Odysseus’s faithful servant and swineherd, was another character who required significant aging in the film—and with his jet-black hair, presented Casny with a Herculean task. Bleaching very dark hair white needs to be done over multiple days (weeks, even) and requires the utmost care to avoid causing damage or breakage. Unfortunately, the team didn’t have the luxury of time. After two rounds of bleach, Leguizamo’s hair still had a yellow tinge to it (again, very normal during the bleaching process), so Casny and her team broke out Fanola purple shampoo, an Italian product that’s "really strong and can cut the yellow,” and Kérastase purple shampoo to remove the brassiness, relying on silver art pens for touch-ups on set.

During a break in Leguizamo's filming, he returned home to New York for a month. “I gave his wife bottles of Olaplex No. 5, Olaplex conditioner, Olaplex leave-in, and told her to make sure he used them diligently,” Casny says with a laugh. He did, and when he returned to set in Los Angeles, Casny was finally able to bleach him to the perfect, bright white shade.

Anne Hathaway, as Penelope, stands in front of her servant Melantho, played by Mia Goth.

Universal PicturesDenoting status and telling a backstory

Throughout the film, hair and makeup are used to denote status. Servants' hair is left simple, uniform, and unadorned, as opposed to the intricate, individualistic styles of kings and queens. Even among the royals, though, the beauty sheds light on their differences.

Penelope’s look, for example, is elegant and restrained. “One thing we were thinking is that she’s trying to stay put-together because she thinks Odysseus is going to come home any minute, but she also doesn’t want to give the impression to her suit[or]s, ‘I’m available,’” explains Casny, who decided on a series of center-parted updos for Hathaway. “She had about seven changes total, and I had a drawer full of braids and things, so every day she came in and we just did our thing, making it a little different for each scene, all staying in that simple, classic aesthetic.” A bit of Davines hairspray and a Mason Pearson brush were part of Casny’s styling arsenal for Penelope.

This is in direct contrast to Helen’s more opulent, elaborate beauty looks. (If you look at the castles of Ithaca and Sparta in the film, you’ll also notice the same contrast in architecture.) Nyong’o’s skin is vibrant and luminous, and Abel created a custom-made contour that “gave her skin dimension without looking like modern makeup.”

For Helen’s hair, everything was based on Nyong’o’s own sisterlocks, which were cut into a bob shape. Wanting to add lots of length—inspired by photos they found of traditional African braids—Nyong’o had 50-inch sisterlocks made in Kenya for the film. “They went down to her calves,” recalls Casny, who latch-hooked the extensions to the ends of Nyong’o’s sisterlocked bob. “She wanted to salute her heritage with the look, leaning into African queens [of the time,] as opposed to the Greek aesthetic.”